.

The main safety concern is to avoid contact with your skin. The hardener (‘B’) can cause sensitization (allergic reaction over time) from repeated or long unprotected exposure. It can be scary working with chemicals with little or no experience. If you take the time to follow the simple application instructions, you, and those around you will be perfectly fine! Wear gloves, have good ventilation, clean up well and you have nothing to worry about. Here are a few general safety measures to follow when work with Epoxy Resin – HANDS: Wear disposable gloves. If you get epoxy resin on your skin, clean with vinegar or acetone. BREATHING: Cover your mouth and nose. There not be much smell, but there are fumes. Also, if you sand the resin, you do not want to breathe the sanding dust. EYES: Don’t rub your eyes. Flush with water for a long time if you feel irritated. You should wear protective goggles. VENTILATION: Open windows, raise the garage door or work outside. Avoid breathing hidden fumes and putting others at risk.

Resin vs. Varnish… a big selling feature for resin is this : ‘like 50 coats of varnish at once!!!’ – so ya, it is a lot thicker…

If you are unsure about using ArtResin on your piece of art, then try a small experiment. ArtResin will bond to pretty much everything, and as long as your surface is dry and free of loose material, you should be fine. Visit the ‘artists’ section, or read more in the FAQ to see what other users have done.

If you have a unique use, just try it out. If you do some research and ask this question, that is probably the answer you will get. Be careful of soft media like pastels, and others that could smudge or mix colour into the resin. We have used resin on wood, acrylic and oil paints, wax, canvas, inks, paper, collage, watercolours, photographs… The best thing to do is experiment. You may discover the next-big-thing in art.

Yes! As for time needed for oils drying before apply: One crackhead (not really a crackhead) at a local gallery told me that you need to wait at least 6 months until the oil is really dry. I have resined many Oil paintings as soon as they were dry-to-touch. I paint thick, so sometimes that is up to 2 weeks for me, usually less. I have never had a serious problem. On a few pieces there was an oily film on the surface after the resin had cured. I googled what to do and found that it can be washed off with dish soap and warm water… worked fine! The resin really seals in whatever you pour it over… Kinda like a mosquito caught in amber from dinosaur times. Pretty serious stuff.

I often resin over photographs and don’t seal first… i have resined over tracing paper, photo-paper, linen paper… no issues… At the Toronto Outdoor Art show I have seen may artists mounting large scale photographs, and pouring resin directly on the prints. No extra steps necessary. Resin isn’t like normal liquid. If you pour it on plain paper, it doesn’t soak into it. With wet resin on paper, you can touch the other side and it will be dry… So it is fine to resin paper. I have not tried on watercolor paper. Let us know if you try it and what happens! note: I use a Brayer over top to push out any bubbles and avoid wrinkles.

For mounting photos, you don’t need any special glue. White craft glue is water based, so some paper would get wet and wrinkle… to avoid this, just use a glue stick! Once glued down, get a brayer –used in print making, at any art store – I have a rubber one with a wooden handle. It is good for pushing out any air bubbles.

Epoxy Resin will NOT act as a solvent on acrylic (so long as the surface you are pouring on is dry). I have resined many acrylic pieces. I have only had issues with too much oil in my oil paints, and not letting it dry enough: got a filmy surface… and with chalk pastels rubbing (but that was my dumb mistake)… If you are concerned, you can always spray a layer of spray varnish over first (but not really necessary).

you are fine if it is dry. Acrylics are water based too… and they are fine. No need to seal it first. Epoxy Resin is the ultimate sealer!

no paper does not absorb the resin. you can pour it on paper and the other side will be dry. It is pretty thick anyways. average of a cm – you can apply as thick or thin as you like. for my collages, I attach the paper to the board using a brayer, so it is on their really good with no bubbles.

Resin would work. It has the viscosity of honey… you would brush it on. most likely do multiple coats. The resin will run to the bottom, you will need some power grinder/sander to finish the bottom edges where the resin will pool. Repeat until all covered to desired thickness. After the first coat, everything will be really hard and you can sand down any really high pieces sticking out…

Avoid pouring resin over ‘loose’ materials, such as chalk pastels. Anything that can be wiped off with a cloth and is not adhered to a surface will risk mixing with the liquid resin once poured.

Careful with this because it could mix with the resin. If the resin is poured on in a larger quantity and you tilt the board to spread the resin around, or shaking it (like batter in a cake pan) to level instead of using the scrapers may help to prevent mixing. Some loose particles may float into the resin, but for the most part it will sit on top. The resin is very thick. Imagine pouring honey on a thin layer of flower. It would just sit on top unless stirred. If nervous, maybe spray the pastels first with a varnish to harden it.

If you are pouring on big canvas, there is a risk of the heavy liquid resin gathering in the middle as the canvas sags. The easiest solution will take an extra step, but is no big deal if you can be patient… Do a first coat THIN. This first coat will make the surface very stiff. After you have this hard base, apply a second coat to the thickness you want.

Yes, but you are adding another stage of work. You will probably need to do multiple coats unless you don’t mind your resin following the topography of your work. My paintings are textured too.. I will just tell you what I have done lately: After the first coat, I let it dry totally, and then sanded down all the texture that stuck up… just to make sure that I wouldn’t have to do a third coat. When you pour over the sanded areas (no longer glossy), it become perfectly clear again. Now, if this sounds like to much work (which it is), than you can just pour the second coat on when the first coat is hard enough that the two will not mix together… So if it is tacky that is fine. In ‘how-to’ literature about resin application, you would find it telling you to wait until completely dry, wash with alcohol, and pour the next layer… this is a bit extreme. oh, for the sanding the peaks idea, i used a ‘dremel’ handheld tool… with a small sander bit.. made it really fast and easy. I was happy to discover this workflow… as ALL my paintings have texture… and often you find only one or two peaks still sticking up.. and you just aren’t happy!

Canvas will sag in the middle because resin is very dense and heavy. I make my canvas frames myself just with 2″ x 1″ edges or even 2” x 2” edges to be extra strong. if they are big canvases, I put diagonal cross-beams so there is no warp in the wood over time… Of coarse, you can buy these wooded canvases at art stores… I have resined a lot on stretched canvas, and it is really not all that bad… depends on how thick you want the resin.

OK, here is the step by step process I use for making wooden canvases. 1. cut Masonite to the dimensions you want (I use dimensions from the Fibonacci sequence – for awesome reasons) – so starting with masonite and make the frame to match. 2. measure length of Masonite and cut wooden edges to length. (for smaller pieces, 2″x1″ wood, for larger pieces, I use 2″ x 2″ wood so it is stronger.) I use wood glue AND corrugated nails. Attach lengths. 3. Measure gap remaining for the width. Cut edges to length. Glue and nail… 4. I put a screw in the corner to attach the length piece to the width piece. You can also buy flat ‘L brackets’ and screw into the back to make the corners stay tight. 5. sand corner outer edges. fill in gaps with wood filler putty. let dry and sand. 6. To gesso, I found a cheaper solution. White ceiling paint from the hardware store is thick like gesso… and so much cheaper. 7. If it’s a big piece, I put a diagonal piece of wood on the back from corner to corner to keep it from bending and warping. I make a bunch of them at once and work step by step on them all. Over the past 2 years I have been collecting the right tools to make it a faster process (table chop saw, hand drill, power hand sander) Hope that is clear! Get messy!

I have tried a few methods for the collage. i paint over it a lot so imperfections are ok (and even welcomed… ) 1) print from my home computer a bunch of small pieces and fit together.. on tracing paper.. use glue sticks because water based paints (runny ones) make the paper wrinkle a lot…. 2) print large scale on thicker paper at a printer and glue on with white craft glue, making sure to push any bubbles out. This is more expensive, but cleaner. I call my style ‘organized mess’, so some wrinkles and rips add to it… spontaneous mess.. ya know… also, wooden canvases make applying the resin easier. ~davezak.com

Resin does not stick to disposable paint tarps, sandwich bags and the back side of shiny tape. You can buy special molds that are made with ‘release-compounds’, if you want.

A Gallon Kit covers about 35 square feet. A 32 oz kit covers about 8 square feet. This is a good standard, but obviously, if you want a thicker resin, you will not cover as much surface area.

128 Ounces = 16 Cups = 8 Pints = 4 Quartz = 1 Gallon

You should use resin either outdoors or in an open garage for ventilation. It must be used around room temperature and not too humid otherwise you can get a surface film/defects that don’t always appear right away but will show up after a few months. If your conditions are right it’s easy stuff to work with and it makes a notable difference to your work.

Measure equally – exact amounts! Adding too much of parts A or B will mess up the chemical reaction that’s happening. When you scrape out of the containers, don’t get every last bit. Material on the sides may not be mixed in well. As for stirring – keep stirring – if bubbles appear, don’t worry. – Not stirring properly will result in sticky resin that never fully cures.

The oils should be dry to touch yes! Some artists say it can take months for oils to be TRULY dry… it is unnecessary to wait that long. When you are applying resin, you may need to scrape along the surface to spread it out… if the paint is not dry, you could smudge and mix in some pigment with the resin… could look neat, but could ruin your work.

To spread, just anything flat.. the epoxy will ruin your spreading tool. I have used pieces of cardboard… started using trowels, but had to throw them out after. Even a scrap piece of wood works…

Make sure the surface is dry, dust free, wax and grease free. Check that the piece is level. You probably want to set up newspaper underneath your work area and prop it up on support blocks.

It is a good idea to have your piece raised off the ground. But be careful, as one user learned: “just resined another piece and learned (the hard way) about an epoxy resin ‘do-not’. DO NOT allow epoxy resin to adhere the back of your canvas to support blocks. ripped up the back of my canvas along the wood pretty bad. but I think I can rescue it still with some crafty rubber cement and staple work.”

Resin is self-leveling. This means you can leave it alone! (so long as you have a level surface) – Spread it around with a brush, trowel, clean piece of wood or any dry, flat, clean object. – but now watch out for bubbles.

the bubbles will keep coming until they are all gone… I would pour and spread, wait 10 minutes… scrape. Come back in ten minutes. scrape. wait ten minutes… come back a third time and scrape.. This SHOULD be plenty. You can check again in ten and make sure. Sometimes you may miss a bubble and it is very discouraging when it’s dry and too late to pop. Permanent bubbles.

You will want to pop the bubbles! Not too much effort to do this, but sucks if one of the bubbles dries in place… there is no going back!

WORKING TIME! The amount of time you can stir and work with the resin before it really starts to harden. It’s about 30 minutes. You are best to use the product as soon as you mix it.

The amount of time it takes for the mixture to be totally finished the chemical reaction and is at its hardest. It’s about 48 to 72 hours. You can touch the surface after about 6 to 8 hours and it will no longer be sticky.

You can add as many coats as you want to. Too many coats may make things foggy. Wipe the first surface clean with a clean cloth. To be extra clean, use alcohol. You really usually only need one coat. You should wait at least 6 hours at least between coats. The second coat should be applied when the first coat is ‘tacky’.. Or later then that. As long as the next coat will not mix in with the first one… (theres a chemical reaction going on, best to just let it finish) If you have patience, then let it dry to the point that it is really hard and you can wash the surface with a wet cloth (or alcohol if you want it as clean as you can get it) to make sure there is no dust etc. and then pour…

How thick do you want to go? You should wait between coats (see above).

YES! There are lots of pigments specific for this. Why not try and mix in your own color and see what happens. Look in the ‘Artists’ section to see what some artists are doing with resin.

Epoxy Resin has a viscosity close to honey. It is a bit runnier than honey, if you can picture that. It is sticky like honey too and can be painted on. You often spread it with disposable brushes or foam brushes. Some artists will mix it with pigment and use it like paint. Looks great.

Epoxy Resin WILL be glossy! You could try using a really fine sand paper or applying a non-glossy clear acrylic medium over the surface. You can also spray it with a non-glossy spray varnish to remove the gloss. If you are not happy with what the sandpaper does, you can buff it back to shine.

Using resin is a lot nicer when you are organized and have the proper supplies. Here are a few: Measuring cups, mixing pots, disposable brushes, masking tape, safety goggles, mixing sticks, disposable gloves***, trowel, dust masks, rags.

You can clean with acetone. Acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover and can be bought at hardware stores. Also vinegar is safe. Try vinegar. Keep on gloves and have paper or drop sheets on the ground to keep clean up simple.

I keep a roll of paper towels or rags to wipe the containers right after pouring (wearing gloves), and throw the rags/paper towel into the garbage. Keep wiping till it’s off… easiest when still really wet. As for cleaning after the fact, it’s a sticky mess (and will remain sticky). I would throw them out… Soap and water doesn’t do much. You can buy ‘acetone’ from hardware stores (main ingredient in nail polish remover). Stinky, but works!

Resin is very hard! I have dropped many pieces. It is heat resistant and mostly scratch resistant. It is used on bar tops, so think about how durable those have to be. It is also used on the bottom on boats.

No, cracking is not a problem. Again, the same chemical is used for sealing tabletops, boats and for industrial flooring. It is very hard once cured.

Resin is permanent. Forever. It is a chemical reaction between 2 parts that basically creates new molecules: Cannot be undone.

ALL resin will yellow SLIGHTLY over time, ESPECIALLY if exposed to UV rays. You will notice this yellowing over white areas mostly. The yellowing can be minor, but again, the same material is used on boats, though often mixed with pigment. I would experiment with a small amount to see if it serves you purposes. There is still a level of experimentation, as every application has not been documented and tested.

Well, Yes… you definitely can get a similaf effect. Polyester Resin is generally used for mold making – small figurines, jewelry etc. Often it will be mixed with color pigments. Polyester does not dry as hard as Epoxy Resin. (so could scratch easier?) Also, some has more of a matte finish as apposed to glossy because it is often intended to be painted over. I would think you are fine with it. experiment!

Polyester resin is more for casting (pouring into molds). Epoxy is best for coating because it is more adhesives than polyesters. Epoxy is higher strength and has less shrinkage than polyesters. – We sell epoxy resin.

Polyester resin is more for casting (pouring into molds). Epoxy is best for coating because it is more adhesives than polyesters. Epoxy is higher strength and has less shrinkage than polyesters. – We sell epoxy resin. – Polyurethane is like pouring white craft glue on your work and letting it dry to clear… not the same effect at all. Totally. Different. Materials.

You can definitely use the resin with wet pigments and paints.. It will be a lot of experimenting.

If indoors, it will last for a very long time. This same product is used to seal the bottoms of boats and to cover bar tops. It is very durable. The article you sent mentions that it may get brittle with age. I think we will both be dead by the time this happens. Epoxy resin does yellow over time. You will only notice this over white areas of your work. It is not very extreme.

Again, it is also used on boats and VERY durable. Also used for flooring in factories.

1. Put on another coat of resin over the whole surface. (May seem overkill)
2. If there is a big pet store near you, I have been told that aquarium stores sell a ’scratch/buffing’ compound. You will need to rub hard.
3. The way you would fix automotive blemishes: Rough sand paper – over the WHOLE thing preferably, but probably can get away with just over the messed up area.. sand deep enough. Automotive stores will have ‘rubbing compound’ or plastic polish. Use this with a fine, soft cloth and rub like crazy until the shine comes back! (You can buff it back without a product, but maybe try and buy something if it can make it easier)

As long as the containers are stored properly and sealed, epoxy resin will stay useable for many many years.

Read about mixing properly. You may have to scrape off the wet material and pour another coat. Your work will be fine. Scrape away. Don’t worry! Again, you must measure and mix well. You have to always mix from the very bottom of the container. Scrape off, wipe or scrub the surface. Sand the underlying hard resin and put on a new coat. It’s a pain, but you have learned for next time! note: don’t just add a new layer overtop of the sticky one without removing. I did this. After a few weeks hanging on a wall, it began to leak!

Try again, make sure you stir lots. This piece may be ruined if you do not like how it looked. Can you pull a ‘Pollock’ and call it a happy accident? If you get the same problem, the product may be old or you stored it in bad temperatures. There is usually nothing that you did wrong if this happens. I would blame the product. No fixes sorry.

I am not sure if it will get foggy in the cold. All I know about temperature and resin, is that the warmer the room.. the FASTER it will cure.
fast cure time is a big plus because it is less of a window to allow crap to fall or float onto the surface.

Most resins have some non-yellowing agent… BUT can still yellow slightly over time, especially if exposed to the sun. You really only notice any yellowing if you resin over pure white areas. For the most part it is very clear.

Most resins on CLAIM to have non-yellowing agents. I have been meeting with a formulator (PhD in Chemistry), discussing private labeling an art-specific brand of resin. He told me ALL resin WILL yellow slightly over time. 2 things: 1. yellows SLIGHTLY, and only really noticeable on white areas of your work. 2. yellows faster and worse when exposed to the sun/UV light.

Causes and Treatment of Surface Blush – Another problem with curing epoxy in cold conditions is the ‘amine blush’. When epoxy cures in the cold, the surface will have a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The solution; if there’s any trace of amine blush (i.e., if the cured epoxy surface feels greasy), just wash it with warm water, to which a tiny bit of dishwashing detergent has been added. The amines are water soluble, and will wash away easily. So, some warm water with dishwasher soup will wipe it off.

Resin dries (cures) faster with more heat. You can increase room temperature or use heat lamps.

Don’t worry, the bubbles will rise automatically. There are lots of ways to pop the bubbles.

Many ways: Blow on it with a straw, scrape with a trowel, run a portable torch 6-8 inches over the surface or just blow on them – check again ten minutes later. The hand torch works the best by far. Forces the gases up.

You can use light steel wool or scratch and gouge at it. it will mess up the high gloss finish, but you can mix up a small batch of resin and paint it on, or pour a second coat. Too bad…

Drips can be sanded off afterwards. Use tape to stop this before it happens! You can brush away drips until its dry as you work.

Put a big cardboard box over it. – if you are working in a garage – wet the floor in the garage and it keeps the dust down. Some artists will build dust-free-plastic-tents out of plastic. These are great if you have the space.

Please take the health risks seriously. Hardener is toxic. You do not want to swallow it. If you get it on you skin, over time and repeated exposure you will have allergic reactions.

When you mix the resin and the hardener together, they do something neat, they react and join together. All the epoxy molecules become one big molecule. The result is a hard substance that is very strong. This final material cannot be altered now. You can’t melt it or mold it. (That’s why they come separate.)

Try it! Use thick-edge canvases because these will never be framed – 2″ has more value. Use WOOD canvas because the resin can gather in the middle of canvas and make is sag = thick resin in middle of piece.